3000 miles, all I found was a bunch of rocks

Hello again to everyone checking in on me. My apologies for not keeping up with the blog as often as I have been. I may however be able to offer you the next few stories as somewhat of an explanation for  my blog hiatus. And trust me, I've stayed plenty busy the for the last month or so.

It all started with a hurricane. I'd been making good time and progress across the flatland just off of the coast and keeping my morale high by taking in all of the sights. I stopped at Asateague Island  (off the coast of Maryland) and saw wild ponies and cape deer wandering everywhere. The state park side of the island was closed for the season, so I had the entire eastern shoreline to myself. It was a full moon night and taking a walk around the shore and dunes with a few of the horses was amazing. The next morning I was excited to push on so I left with a broad smile pasted to my face.

A few days later I made it to the north side of the Chesapeake Bay bridge. The authorities won't allow bikes to ride across the 21 mile span therefore I was forced to wait for arrangements to be made for a truck ride to Norfolk. Coincidentally I was born there on the naval base, so for the second time on my trip I had the feeling of coming home. I couldn't get a lift on the day I arrived and was told to try again the next day. That night a tropical storm moved in and dumped five days worth of rain and 80 mph winds right onto my head. I swear five days alone in a single man ultralight tent listening to the howling winds rip at the tie downs will drive anyone a little batty. I read all the books I had with me, then read them again, then played my guitar, then tried to sleep, then tried to eat. I couldn't keep a flame on my stove for the life of me so my menu was reduced to peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and soupy oatmeal. I left my sanctuary and yelled into the gusts to vent my frustration a bit, I ended up laughing myself sore and then slept like a rock. When I woke up the sun was shining and felt and overwhelming sense of accomplishment for having braved the storm in a nylon tube tent.

After making it through Norfolk and into North Carolina the flatland gave way to mountains and there was nothing else. One after the other they rolled under my tires and eventually I made it to the Blue Ridge and Great Smokey Mountains. I was gaining elevation every hill I conquered along the way so it was nice to see what I'd been doing all the work for. The best payoff for sweating out the last few hundred miles came and went quickly, but it was totally worth it. 

The day I was set to cross into Georgia started out like the others, I did about 27 milesof  climbing and decided to take lunch at a random plot of land. When I started out again I didn't have to pedal for long, about a half mile down the road came a sign that warned of a 10% downgrade for the next eight miles with hairpin switchback turns the whole way. I just about melted, I was in heaven. I felt like I was racing a motorcycle around a track, the road was going by at 50 mph. The cars on the road couldn't take the turns nearly as fast as I could, and couldn't figure out just what in the hell I was doing at those speeds with a guitar on the back of my rig. So I made it down the mountain safely and when I hit the flatland I entered Georgia, It was a blissful moment.

A few days later I ended up at Rocktown in LaFayette, GA. This was my goal all along for the winter, and I hit 3000 miles. So you can imagine I was stoked to be there and have rocks to climb and be done with the pedaling for a while. But alas, it was getting cold and there wasn't much of a chance to climb in between snow and sleet storms. So a friend of mine was able to take some time off work and come down south to rescue me from boredom. It didn't take much to convince me to ride back with him to Athens, OH...where I had started from.

So now for the third time on my trip I had that homecoming feeling as we crossed into Athens County. My friends are here, my dog is here, I am here. Back where I stared isn't so bad after four months of camping out. Heat, showers, food, and company all make it worth coming back. For now this is where I'll be, however I plan on making some moves in the spring. Possibly continuing my trek, but heading west. Doing the math I'm sure 3000 miles towards the setting sun will plop me in the redwood forests I've only read about. Anything is possible.

The Jersey Shorline

Hello again everyone and happy belated Halloween! I've been roaming around lower New York and main state New Jersey for the last week and have finally made it to the coast. I'm currently in Sea Isle City on my way to the southernmost tip of the state to take a ferry into Delaware. The best part about the last week has been the terrain. After I made it through Princeton, NJ ( full of ivy league snobbery ) the hills disappeared and I found myself in what seemed like the middle of nowhere. The Pine Barrens area of the state consisted of nothing more than trees and sand, there weren't even houses for thirty miles at a time. Luckily it was flat and the wind was held back by the treeline, so despite the rain ( constant for the last six days ) I made good time. Though there wasn't much to catch my eye in terms of scenery the desert like flatness made up for it.

I should tell you though about the mountains in north NJ and the fauna they support. My first day in the state I petered out around Wawayaset State Park and pitched my camp far off of the road near a stream. I was thankful to be away from the road noise for a change and I let the rain and crickets sing me to sleep. It was a long restful sleep, the kind you get on a Saturday after a long work week. When I awoke the rain had stopped long enough for me to feel as though I'd make some good progress for the day. I was going about my "morning business" when a LARGE black blob caught my attention. You guessed it, it was a bear. It wasn't too close, though it was close enough to be uncomfortable given my defenseless position. We stared at each other for a moment, then he turned his attention back to fording the stream. I said jokingly " Go on, it's not that cold! " And with that he splashed his way across. I was relieved, but the experience wasn't over. Three minutes later two more bears came marching through my spot. This couple seemed smaller than the last one and I found myself in awe of their silent gracefulness ( now that my pants were up ). We acknowledged each others presence but neither I or the pair seemed startled and I truly felt I was accepted as a part of their element. The contrast of black fur on gold leaves is something I'll remember forever. Then, as quietly as the came in, they went. And after I packed my things up so did I.

More recently I took in the beauty of a saltwater marsh along the Atlantic. It was the first I had ever seen. I was interested to see the way the water parted the grass and teemed with fish. The minnows swam along in a continuous ribbon through the shallows and the sand cranes dabbled their way around looking for a meal. With the sun setting underneath the cloud base it was a spectacular sight. And then later in the darkness the horizon was lit by the skyline of Atlantic City, equally as stunning. The rain had finally stopped and the clouds were being pushed out by a strong northern wind. I felt the promise of a clear day underneath the briskness of the gusts.

I was right. The next morning I rose with the sun and went back to the shore to soak in it's warmth. I was surprised when I got there, everything was gone. The birds, fish, and grass had all vanished. The tide had come in while I was sleeping and covered everything. So I went swimming, with so much water around what else was there to do. I guess I was a little excited to see the sun for the first time in ten days.

I unexpectedly needed to replace my rear tire ( it looked like the surface of the moon ) and was lucky to find a bike shop that had what I needed. The store was huge, the biggest I'd ever seen. As it turns out, they sell merchandise online all over the world and I had stumbled into the main storefront. The mechanics were very friendly and even gave me two free tubes. I got some local beta about the road ahead and then the owner ferried me through the city in his Mercedes station wagon. Cruisin' the city in style! I felt like I was in a rocket ship.

All is well here and I'm glad my pace has slowed enough for me to " take it all in. " The stories I've shared would surely have never occurred if I was still gunning for Horse Pens. Oh, and I hit 2000 miles about three days ago and to celebrate I ate an entire pint of Ben & Jerry's, smores if you'd care to know. That's all I've got for now, thanks for checking in. I'll be seein' ya!

P.S.-Jaime, I'm saddened to hear about your wife's untimely passing. I wish for the sun to shine on you and keep you warm with the memory of the good things you've known. Your wife was a gem of a person and I'm glad I had the chance to meet her.

Little Rock City not Horse Pens 40

So, I've decided after pushing through the first five hundred mile week that to keep up the pace I'd need more than just willpower. I'm sure I'd have to call upon the powers that be to hold back the weather and give me the strength to endure such a grueling pace. I wasn't allowing myself adequate rest periods during the day, nor was I taking any days off. I'm sure if I'd have continued you would've seen merely a shadow of the man you used to know, if I even made it there. Now I plan on meeting you all at Little Rock City instead.

The mileage I mentioned before brought me to the doorstep of New York City. Having decided to take some time off and recover from the last push all I needed to do was find lodging. Before my legs could even cool down the rumble of a Harley Davidson was drawing my attention. The steel horse's pilot was a strong accented Cuban man with a parrot on his shoulder as co-pilot ( not kidding ). Before introductions he complimented me on my bike setup and aggressively asked where I was staying. When I told him I hadn't a clue his response was: "You got it,need a shower? You got it, food? You got it!" In a thick New York / Cuban tongue. And that was it, I followed Carlos back to his pad overlooking the Hudson River and sprawled my things out in my own bedroom. I spent the next few days getting to know him and his seven birds ( four parakeets, two parrots, and a macaw ).

Of course I went into the city. I spent all the money I had with me every time I went. There are too many things to tell you about, but I can sum it all up by saying WOW. It was huge, and noisy, and dirty, and in a strange way beautiful. I met up with my buddy Mills and had a blast getting tanked then roaming all over the south side via taxi. I wandered around Times Square at peak hour on a Friday afternoon. Took subways and trains in and out of the city. All in all it was a great experience. And strangely enough now that I'm out and back on the road I miss it. I wish I could spend more time there but in this case money buys time, and I'm trying to be conservative.

I want to say thank you to Mills and Carlos for helping me have a great time in the 'Big Apple'. I'm sure that I would've just passed it by if you hadn't have extended your helping hand. I know for a fact I will return, for as much as I saw there's alot more to be seen. Next time though I'll come with a bigger budget.

Knocking out the miles !

Hello again to all of ya'll. I've been back on the road after Acadia for about four days now pushing headlong into a headwind. At times the wind has been strong enough to bring my morale and forward progression to all time lows. But never fear! Revival is merely a thought away. My main motivation now is seeing the A-town crew at Horse Pens 40 in Alabama and nip'n on a jar of shine around the campfire. Ah, the memories that are conjured up doing exactly that...I miss you guys. I'm dead set on making it there though it requires 1600 miles worth of pedaling in 25 days, yikes. I've afforded myself five days of rest as long as I can complete eighty miles a day. So do an interpretive dance for me to ward off the rain and cast out the wind and I'll do my best to keep up the pace. ( And when I see you we'll have a "interpretive dance-off", and yes the winner gets a prize.) I think my favorite and most repeated line I've heard so far has been, "Your heading south? Don't worry it's all downhill." Which leaves me hopeful that eventually I will find the proof of this widespread theory, though I haven't had any luck yet.
While out on the road today riding south on U.S. Highway 1 I bumped into a fellow rider, a local to the area. He not only showed me a shortcut bike path which cut out a major portion of city traffic, but also put me up for the night in an apartment adjoining his house just outside of Portland, Maine. The property is beautiful and has a seventeenth century farm feel with the history to go along with it. It's bound to rain tonight and tomorrow morning so I'll be sure to enjoy sleeping in a bed for a change. Also today I discovered that I'd cracked a weld loose on my bike frame. A trip to an auto-body shop, some MiG welding, small talk, and ten dollars later put me back in business. Sometimes it pays off to have a steel frame bike ( take that you ultra light bike nuts ).

Oh and don't get too excited, I did not get another camera. You're lucky I've got a backlog of photos that haven't been seen yet. Although they're a little generic I think it adds to the verbal flavor of the blog to keep posting them. I like the idea of getting a new camera contributed for the duration of my adventure ( stroking my beard ) now where would I get one of those...

The story of David

I would like to tell you the story of David Phillip McKinley. David was 19 years old and anxious to be on his own. One day he had the notion to leave the comforts of his hometown and travel abroad. His travels eventually led him to Acadia National Park, a place filled with beautiful ocean side cliffs and stunning vistas. Impressed with the overall impact of such an awesome wilderness preserve he set out to do his best at having a fulfilling experience and began to check off " to do's " on his list. Climb a mountain and post up base camp, check. Watch the sunrise as one of the first to do so in the United States, check. Have invigorating night hikes along steep trails, check. It seemed David was doing just fine on his trip, but one item on the list nagged at him. Climbing the rocks in the morning along the crashing shoreline.

The morning of October third was the day, it had to be. The full moon was only one evening away which left the entire island a virtual playground both night and day. After such a quiet and brisk night it made sense to head out to the cliffs at dawn to soak in the warmth of a new day. When David reached the shoreline the sun was in full force and so was the surf. He traversed along the rocks and admired the beauty of the stagnant pools of seawater that were so abundant with life. Most of the 'climbing' he was doing would prove to be some of the most memorable and fun of his life. He breathed in the salty spray and danced with the rising tide climbing fluidly and without contemplation. This truly would be a day worth noting in his journal, if he were able to.

As the young explorer flirted with the foaming ocean crust he neglected to realize that just below it's surface were the rip tides of despair. He had heard stories of others being swept off the rocks and disappearing, but surely this couldn't happen to him. On a day like today it seems impossible to fathom such a cruel demise. He left behind his fear and continued on underneath a outcropping which placed him completely exposed above the depths. Because there could be no fault in his perceived invincibility he never once turned around to notice the swell racing toward him. In the next few seconds all of his previously nullified doubts would become terribly real.

The swell of the rising tide pulled David from the rock with a force that cannot be reckoned with. He kicked and scraped at the rock face he'd just been ripped from with wild eyed frenzy. His body was being churned and slammed into the rocks by the same water he thought was harmless. Over and over again he would claw at the nothingness of a shear cliff face with no success. His efforts never ceased, however his thoughts turned to the people he loved who would have no idea what had happened to him. He began to wish he had the chance to tell them all how much of an impact on his life they've made. He felt sorry for having forsaken such love to be selfishly trekking around solo. He began to wish there was someone there to save him. No one ever came.

I was fortunate enough to make it out of the water. It was a hell of an experience. David never made it, I found the plaque commemorating his existence near where mine had almost ended. I want you all to know I'm fine, just a little banged up and I'll never do anything that stupid again. Unfortunately I was climbing with my satchel on and my camera and mp3 player have bit the dust. Up above are the last two pictures I took before being pulled aside by mother nature and given a good scolding. I hope you all know how much it will mean to me when I get to see your smiling faces again. I'm glad I'll have the chance.

2...1...3...Acadia!!!!

Hey there everyone! Wow, it's been a crazy week full of big hill climbs and stunning vistas. I found a good enough window in the New England weather to push for a solid week. I made the 360 miles from Burlington to Acadia National Park and only had to endure one rain day. I didn't give myself very much time for exploring New Hampshire or central Maine, but I got to see plenty of it as I passed. I'm glad I stopped at the Great Vermont Corn Maze along the way. It's a small family run operation and put together very well. I had a great time navigating the maze, it took me two hours to get out and when I did I was offered a place to stay for the night, thankfully out of the wind. I'm running out of time on this computer, I have quite a bit to tell ya'll about. I'm posted up here for a week so I'll get a chance to add more to the blog, but for now you should know that I'm doing well and having fun. Enjoy the pictures.

Oh Burlington, you've won my heart!

Wow, I never thought that I would have so much fun in Burlington, Vermont. My two days of rest turned into nearly a week of exploration, art, and culture. None of which would have been possible without my chance meeting of Carol and Alison who have let me stay on their houseboat for the duration. I can't express how much they've actually helped me ( between the food and the lodging ) but I can assure you that I've made honest friends of them both.
So here comes the rundown...I started looking around the city and at first was taken aback by all of the retail shops and the masses of tourists coming through the area. Over the next few days I started to find the culture I was looking for, it was merely hiding. Bikes are everywhere! It's exciting for me to see so many people out and about in such a hilly area. Take a lesson Athens, there are almost as many bikes as cars on the streets but there are hills! Steep hills, all over the place, rising from the water and stretching as far as the horizon. Are people crazy? I don't think so, just determined to make a change. The desire to have an impact on such a wide scale problem can be seen everywhere in this city. There are recycling containers next to every trash can, a bumpin' farmers market, and more 'localvores' then I can shake a stick at. I'm sure if I had the time and money I could find a nice home an be a part of this community. It doesn't seem like I'd get tired of the recreational activities either.


Aside from relaxing and just taking it all in I wanted something to look forward to. I was walking around 'uptown' and saw the marquee for The Flynn Theatre calling out to me "come see The Decemberists, you know you love them". It was hard for me not to listen, even thought the ticket took a healthy chunk out of my budget the show was captivating enough to balance it out. Yet another budget crater was formed when I spied the Ben and Jerry's shop, which I had no less than three times while here.

So for those of you that I've met in the great state of Vermont, keep being awesome your electric energy will be hard to leave behind. My travels must resume if I am to make it to Acadia before it's too cold for beach bouldering. My time's about up on this computer or else I'd tell you all more. Sometimes it's better to hear it all in person, which brings up a though I've had for a few weeks. *A-Town crew ( and anyone else that wants to be included ) let's meet up down south for some bouldering at the Horse Pens 40 triple crown...what'cha think? Cool, see you there. I've got alot of traveling to do before that though, so wish me luck and warm weather. Peace.

Picture-Palooza !!!!!!

Hello again everyone. As you can tell I'm alive and well, having spent a week in the Adirondacks I've come out no worse than I went in. In fact, I'm doing great. I'll have to admit, my mood has been entirely influenced by the kindheartedness and generosity of everyone I've met so far. So I've decided to give this blog to all of you I've gotten to know along the way. Whether it was a crash pad you shared with me, directions and beta you've given me, a boat you've let me sleep on, or just a kind face and a story you've provided, I couldn't have gotten along this well without you. Ok, so here it is, the mother lode of photos from this past week...enjoy. The view from 'my' houseboat on Lake Champlain



I pedaled 1002 miles to get to the ferry and into Vermont, adios New York!

Where's my trad gear when I need it?!

Follow the yellow bike road.

Rain day, rest day. It's smooth, it's sharp, but oh so gneiss.

Petzl found a fungi to hang out with.

I bought a head net, the bugs are getting bothersome.

Cool Dyno problem called 'Drop the clutch'

The Gem of the McKinzie Pond boulders, 'Flux Capacitor'

Dinner.

Ok, cool stuff? I had fun, I didn't have the time to take photos of everything I did ( that would take away from the coolness ), but some moments I had to capture and share. I'm moving out across Vermont and New Hampshire and I'm on my way to Maine, Acadia Park. I stopped in a local gear shop here in Burlington, VT and got beta for some climbing along the way including Acadia. Thank you, thank you, thank you a million times for all the warmth you've all shown me. I'm sure it will help me to brave the onset of the New England fall chill. See you soon!

In Mexico, on da beach boyeeee!

Hey Ya'll ! Things have been a bit hectic for me these last few days with all the holiday vacationing families. It's hard to squat at a campground with so many people around. On Sunday evening ( the 6th ), after going nonstop for a few days to avoid the crowds I pulled into Mexico Point State Park in Mexico, NY. Amazed at how quiet it was I sprawled out my gear and decided to rest a spell. So I spent yesterday catching some Z's, swimming, washing clothes, exploring the 'turn of the century' buildings, and eating heartily.
The only problem I've had lately is with BB ( my bike ). She's been making some noise for the last few days and slowly, piece by piece, I've been figuring out what the issue is. After I packed my things up this morning ( Tuesday the 8th ) I boot scooted my way to Watertown, NY. I sprinted here from about 13 miles out trying to make it to a bike shop before closing. Guess what?! As I pulled up to the shop, The Village Peddler, the owner was just locking up. He let me borrow the tools I needed to set BB straight and when I asked him for a recommendation to some good eats he told me about Johhny D's diner across the way. Turns out he owns both establishments. I couldn't be happier to have met that fellow today.

One thing I'd like to admit to all of you is how much I LOVE PEACHES! These particular few I scavenged off the ground ( fair game in my book ) just after I made it through Rochester, NY. In the city I found a grocery store that was the largest I had ever seen. Picture a building the size of Wal-Mart with no inventory other than food. It was called Wengmans, they had everything I've ever eaten or craved. It truly was a hard place to be considering the budget I'm on and the fact that I must bear the burden of carrying my purchases along with me. Though it wouldn't have weighed me down for long ( I haven't had much trouble putting away about 5,000 calories a day, BOOM ).

That's alot of cabbage!! I've been pushing through miles and miles of farmland along Lake Ontario and I've noticed all the fields of grapes ( prevalent on Lake Erie ) have turned into apple and peach orchards, but in the middle of all of that was this...about fifty acres of cabbage! It goes on forever, front to back and left to right.

This will be my last post for maybe a week. I plan on making it to Adirondack State Park tomorrow and taking my time moving through all of it's mountains. I plan on doing some fly-fishing, climbing, swimming, and taking it easy in solitude. Everyone I've come across tells me of how desolate it is in that region. "Ain't no roads up there, no people either. Why do you want to go there?" For that very reason I'd tell them, most times I got a laugh, other times a blank stare. However you might take it, I promise I'll be safe and post a new blog as soon as I'm out of the mountains. Until then, all of my love.

Buffaloed in Buffalo

How Do my friends! These last few days have been fun and full of exploration. I made it to Lake Erie and found that island I mentioned earlier, it was lame. It was a peninsula not a detached piece of land. But I saw some awesome things ( like this restored ship that was actually sailing out to the lake ) and met a few really nice folks. Did you know some of the oldest concord grape vines in the world are in North Western New York? Fields of grape vines trailing off into the lake and setting sun is an amazing sight to see.
I had to make my way through Buffalo, NY to get to Niagra Falls ( pictured above ) and found out though there may be a bike path / lane, it doesn't always get you somewhere. I ended up riding in circles and I was following the signs! So after about 5 miles of wasted energy I got my bearings from the sun and headed east to 'go around' the city. Although this added about 15 miles to my trip it didn't smell as bad and there was less traffic, so I thought it worthwhile.
I'm at about 540 miles so far and still heading north towards Maine. I thought it would be nice to detour and work on some farms and rest up, but it isn't getting any warmer and every stop along the way takes days away. I don't really know how to describe the attraction to New England other than magnetic. So here I go, like a roasted marshmallow to chocolate and graham cracker, it just fits.

On the road again

First off I want to shout out and say thanks to all of my friends that called to wish me well. The cell phone contact will be spotty because it is put away in my bags most of the time. So... DP, D-Spot,L-Spot,MC, Broke Dog, Big M, Rand-L, Ash, Trey, G$, Fatty, Levitate, and the rest of you A-Town crew ( fellowship if you prefer ), I wish the best for you and yours and I'll have you in my thoughts and heart forever. We'll keep in touch.

And of course my family, thanks for putting me up for the last few days, it's been real, and I've enjoyed the meals and time together. But just like a pint of ice cream, it is over at just the right time.

So, here I go. Off to New York with a short detour in Pennsylvania to spend time on an island in Lake Erie. Crazy.

Nothing to do. Watching storms brew.

Things have been slow these last few days. It's nice to be spending time back in the old house. Remembering the creaks of the floors and hearing the echo off the plaster walls brings me right back to 1995. With little to do I've been replenishing supplies, learning new songs, eating lots of food, and trying to clean out years worth of junk in the attic ( Goodwill beware! ). Not to make you envious but it's worth mentioning that I've been helping myself to Mom's homemade wine and cookies too!

I've been tracking hurricane Danny and checking in with the weather channel and it seems like I'll be staying put for at least another day. An easterly moving low pressure storm pushing in from Lake Erie is supposed to meet up with Danny and dump all over Pennsylvania and New York. Since that is where I'm heading to it looks like I had better find something to do. Like exploring the hustle and bustle of Boardman, the shopping Utopia right next to Youngstown. And of course, sleeping.

Holmes is where the heart is

So, I decided before I ramble about that I should see my folks. My father's birthday is at the end of August and I haven't been for a visit in a while, so it seemed just right. On the way from Athens to Youngstown ( 233 miles ) I took a scenic route that led me straight through the heart of Amish country. The land was so enchantingly beautiful. The soil was rich, the crops were stout, and the livestock were happily feasting in their lush pasture. Holmes county, Stark co., and Wayne co. need to be seen to be believed. I passed about two dozen buggies, ate lunch at an orchard, saw the Yoder's processing plant ( it's huge, they have their own road! ), and found out that SE Ohio isn't the only place to find steep hills in the state.

Once I made it to Akron the hills petered out. I got excited to see familiar territory once I hit 224 E and that was enough to get me the rest of the way. With the sun long gone I kept on pushing and made it to my folks place a little after 10 o'clock. I'm going to stay here for a few days and then hit the road well rested and over fed.

Well, I'm on my way. I left thursday August 20th and have been going at it pretty steady since. I had one rest day at Dillon Lake SP because it was so beautiful and I was sore from pushing my way out of Athens County. At about 33 miles I reached the top of the biggest 'Appalachian molehill' where someone's house was perched. Abandoned for a while it seemed, but there was a picinic table right at the edge of this vista. ( The picture does it no justice, from here you can see every bit of southeast Ohio, storms rolling in, and the curve of the earth )

Here are some pictures of my bike "BB", she's naked (her saddle bags were being waterproofed at the time) and my newly created mascot "Petzl". Who would've thought propping up a listing pot on a camp stove would awaken a spirit in my coffee cup?! He talks to me, and insists on sitting side-saddle to view the traffic rolling by. Just kidding, I'm not crazy...yet.